Pleats and plaids

A while ago I was trying to make up my mind about what trousers I shall make out of my lovely stretch suiting. The shorts I made are lovely, and fit very well, but I was not sure about the pleated front, as I had some not-so-pretty pleated fronts before.

So, after long deliberation and search I found what I was looking for – a very smart pair of trousers (spotted on Victoria’s Secrets website) without pleats. I think my fabric looks exactly as the one pictured, it should be a satisfying project!

On top of this I am busy deconstructing my woollen jacket.
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How to iron a shirt and press trouser creases

Some good tips here on pressing and ironing. I have never heard a clapper being called a “banger”, but it definitely makes a super sharp creases.
Another little trick is to use fine cotton pressing cloth and moisten it with water and vinegar mix.
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That puzzling distance at the knee

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Linda asked me about that distance K K’ on trouser draft ( now shown in green ) I displayed in my knock knee alteration post.

This draft is taken from a book on menswear tailoring, and I have not seen this straight distance on any other draft before or after this book. It only confirms that there are as many ways to draft a pair of trousers as there are people willing to do it :)

The book says :

… find a knee level by dividing distance between seat line and hem line by two. Then mark a point 6 cm above the knee line and mark it K’. If the trouser pattern you require is not of a classic cut, then don’t mark point K’ and proceed usual..

This is it, no further information is offered on the subject,  barely enough to satisfy our curiousity!

Fly closure ( ladies )

Sewing in a trouser zipper is not hard, and you have done it before. You probably have a favourite way to go about it. Here is my preferred method.

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Trouser pocket tutorial

I have not posted any sewing tutorials so far and I’d like to rectify this. You might find them interesting, I know I always look through tutorials on your sewing blogs and sometimes I find very interesting and original variations of the same old techniques.

Today’s tutorial is about sewing a front trouser pocket. Click the pictures for a better look and instructions.

I begin with laying the facings on top of the trouser pocket. The pocket is cut as a single piece to avoid unnecessary seams. I try to reduce bulk whenever possible.