Choices, choices

Before I did my balance adjustment I had a choice to make.

Which skirt draft to use as a base for my adjustment? Is there really a difference between the drafts? And if there is, how significant is it?
What a perfect time to do a quick comparison between Muller and Aldrich skirt block draft.

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Aldrich is in red

For this experiment I used size 14 standard measurements ( from “Metric pattern cutting” ).
Both blocks are quite similar, but the there are some differences none the less.

I have discovered that Aldrich skirt block is better suited  for a rounder bum.

Why?

Well, see it for yourself.

The results of the experiment

First of all Aldrich skirt has more ease. It is 1.6 cm wider around hips.

Second, the side seams are moved towards the front. Some pattern drafting books insist you move the seams towards the front in every draft, but more often you have to do it if the back side needs extra width.

The Aldrich skirt’s front is 0.7 cm narrower than Muller and back side is 1.3 cm wider.

Aldrich skirt has two back darts instead of Muller’s one. Two darts will give a smoother curve over the bottom.

Aldrich skirt has 13 cm total waist suppression and Muller has 12 cm.

I guess in Muller’s days women preferred more structured, tailored, close-fitting clothes!

Before you ask, I went with Muller’s draft this time.

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Muller vs Fish eye dart ( the full cream version )

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Muller vs Fish eye dart ( 99% fat free version )

Linda asked me why would one choose Muller’s flat seat adjustment over Fish eye dart and vice versa?

I thought it was a very interesting question, so I  decided to have a thorough look into both of these adjustment and pinpoint their strong points and weaknesses.
I took three identical trouser back patterns ( in half-size ) and performed Muller’s adjustment on one of them (in green), Fish eye dart on another ( white ) and left the third one unchanged as control ( red ).

Three pretties

I have reduced the waist dart by half in both cases and taken in the same amount ( half the waist dart width ) at CB in Fish eye adjustment.

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