Patterns, Sewing, Fashion
Last year I published a post about calculating your perfect skirt length based on your height. The principle behind it is Golden ratio, and skirt lengths calculated using this principle will be most flattering for you.
This blog post is still one of the most popular blog posts I have written to date, so to make it even easier to find your perfect skirt length I made you a handy little calculator. Just type in your height in cm and it will calculate all skirt lengths just for you.
In mathematics and the arts, two quantities are in the golden ratio if the ratio of the sum of the quantities to the larger quantity is equal to the ratio of the larger quantity to the smaller one. The golden ratio is an irrational mathematical constant, approximately 1.618 or 0.618
But what does it have to do with sewing clothes? Application of golden ratio produces pleasing and harmonious proportions. It can be found in nature, architecture and human body.
By applying the golden ratio you can decide on how long to make your dress or a skirt to best suit your body, how short or long has to be a jacket to look best with a certain length skirt, how wide has to be the collar, how long the scarf, etc.
So if your jacket length is 66 cm, then the visible length of the skirt should be 41 cm or 106 cm.
Do you apply golden ratio to your clothes?
One of the most important aspects of the skirt is its length .
Skirt lengths vary vastly from micros ( just covering the bum ) to floor sweeping maxis. You can choose any skirt design you like, but it is the length of it that will determine its appropriateness.
And so, you must discuss the skirt length with the client while you are taking her measurements. It is especially important for very short skirts, when 5 cm can be crucial.
If you forget to take client’s skirt length measurement and all information you have is “make it shorter” or “make it longer” you can use the rules for approximate skirt length calculations below.
These calculations are correct for the majority of female figures and use only one measurement – the height. The same rule can be used for sewing trousers and shorts and if you are working with standard industry measurements.
Micro mini
This is the length that reveals the whole leg, just covering the underwear. Measure from the waist line over the buttock to the highest point of the leg. This is the minimal length of the skirt, and making it shorter is not recommended. This length can be calculated as L (length) = 0.18xH (height)
Mini
You can wear the mini in public without a fear of “sending the wrong message”. This group has a bigger variation of lengths, the average one can be calculated as L= 0.26xH but can also vary from 0.22xH to 0.3xH
Knee length skirts
The knee level (KL) can be measured from the waist to the knee. The only problem is if you cut the skirt exactly to the knee point, the edge of the skirt will crinkle. To avoid this problem you can make the skirt L=KL-3 cm for younger girls and L=KL+3 cm for the elegant ladies. The knee level can be calculated as KL=0.35xH
Midi skirts
This type of skirts edge falls between the ankle and the knee. The length formula is L=0.5xH . But you can also choose from the range of 0.4xH to 0.55xH
Maxi skirts
These skirts almost sweep the floor. The length formula is L=0.62xH. When you calculate the maxi length, allow a few extra centimetres for the height of the heel, or take a few centimetres off if you plan to wear it with flats.
All formulas listed above are based on Golden Ratio and allow you to create the garments ideally suited for your height and proportions.
And one more thing. You must consider your leg shape when choosing the skirt length. The horizontal line of the skirt “cuts” the legs and draws attention to the part of the leg it falls to. If you like to create the effect of slender legs, choose the skirt that ends at the slimmest part of the leg – whether it is above or below the knee. This rule can also be reversed – if the skirt ends at the fullest part of the leg, the legs will look fuller.
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