Aldrich pants – the final

I have finally fitted the Aldrich pants. A few more things had to be done to achieve the fit I was after. At my last fitting I was still unhappy with the large diagonal fold at the back. I have referred to my ease reference tables ( I love them to bits, so many times they have saved me ) and discovered that there was too much ease at the thigh level. In fact, 4cm too much. The back crotch extension was just too long ( also called “fork” in tailoring ).

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The diagonal fold pinned

Then I adjusted the back inseams by making a horizontal tuck taking in 0.5cm at inseam and tapering to nothing at the side seam. This removed the horizontal folds at the knee level at the back.

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Inseam adjustment

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And here it is, the final pattern. The trousers toile fits well, ready to be used as a base

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The final pattern

Aldrich pants: Second fitting

I have made the alterations to the original pattern and came up with this pair of pants. The 2 cm fold has certainly solved a few fit problems such as bulging front and excess at the back. The trousers also fit closer to body and feel  “secure”. Please disregard the terrible lump on my right hip – there is a fat seam there and it is sticking out like a sore thumb. Look away!

Ok the waist is comfortable now and the strain is gone

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The butt ears have been removed

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And here is the back view. The back seam really is comfortable and not cutting in ( it looks like it does though ). I still have a slight problem with the fit though. Those diagonal wrinkles bother me, and there seems to be too much fabric at the back. I think it might have something to do with the back inseam being too long for my type of figure. I might pin that wrinkle and see if I like the result.

Fitting Aldrich pants

Fitting pants is a difficult job, especially if every fitting flaw shouts at you. I can’t help it, I always assess how clothes fit everywhere I see it – in shop windows, on models, on unsuspecting people on the street… It is a practice in a way – I see the flaw and imagine where it is on the pattern and how I would rectify it.  And when it comes to making a pair of pants for myself or my client I have to set myself limit on the number fittings and tweaks or it might never end.

For a long time “Metric pattern cutting” by Aldrich was my go-to book. The drafts are pretty simple, using standard measurements and all is very clearly explained.

Metric pattern cutting book cover

I have tried almost every pattern draft in this book and some of them are more successful than others. I find skirts and bodices fitting very well and pattern draft for stretch materials is excellent. On the sleeve pattern draft page I have a bright red “Do not use” sticker, I really don’t like that sleeve. and trousers, surprisingly, I have not tried until now.

So I have decided to draft a standard size 14 trousers by Aldrich ( the closest to my measurements ) without any alterations and see how they fit and what I would change to make them perfect.

So, are you ready? Here is my toile Fitting #1

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Fitting #1 Front

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Back

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Side

Critique is welcome, please tell me if you see any problem areas, where they are  and what do you think should be done to rectify them.