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Skirt balance adjustment for forward tilted pelvis and/or round bottom

Posted by on January 23, 2012 2 Comments

Here it is, the last part of balance adjustment post. I made this video without any captions, because in this case it is easier to write separate instructions.

Front part of the skirt

  • Lower the front part ( closest to CF ) by amount calculated in this blog post.
  • Restore the front waist length by adjusting front dart width.

 

Back part of the skirt

  • Cut out the back dart and cut though the marked line. Raise the part closest to the centre back by amount calculated here.
  • Middle part is tilted to the left by 0.5 cm.
  • Left part is raised as shown.
  • Take the side seam in at the waist by up to 1 cm.
  • Move the side seam towards the front by 0.5-1 cm
  • Side seam length remains the same.
  • Desired width of the second ( left ) dart is no more than 3 cm, first ( right ) back dart is no more than 4 cm.
  • To reduce the second ( left ) back dart width, take in the CB seam. Adjust the second ( left )  back dart to restore waistline length.

The final block depending on the amount of adjustment may or may not have a dart in front;
may have one or two darts at the back.

Easy!

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It’s a monster!!

Posted by on January 20, 2012 6 Comments

My balance adjustment has produced some marvellous results. Just take a look at this monstrous skirt block

Photobucket

Very custom

Just look at it on top of the block for standard people!!

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More on that balance thing

Posted by on December 21, 2011 15 Comments

Ta-da!

So lately I have been sewing some simple things for myself to have something to wear in cooler weather. Simple sewing is good not only for filling small annoying gaps in my wardrobe, but also for pondering some complex sewing matters ( because simple sewing does not engage my brain ).

This time my thoughts were with the balance. How many garments – I thought – can fit so much better if this simple thing is observed from the start. Maybe, half of all people doing flat seat adjustments don’t actually have flat seats? All the ladies complaining about their skirts riding up to their armpits are blaming the lack of waistline, when the problem is in the balance. Why is such a fundamental issue not getting the attention it deserves?

So I decided to write another post on the subject of balance.

Let’s figure out our balance, shall we?

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It’s a balance thing

Posted by on November 23, 2011 3 Comments

Balance plays a huge part in garment fitting. This is the first thing I look at when I am trying on a muslin.

Only balanced garment can sit well on the figure , the garment with its main parts balanced with the corresponding parts of the body.

The garment is balanced if it has all of the following:

  • Correct position of shoulder and side seams
  • Waist line located in the correct position
  • Parts of the garment are in correct proportions with each other

Store bought clothes and commercial patterns are made for a standard figure with correct posture and average built. But it appears that around 70-80% of all people have some sort of posture “variation”. This is where we run into fit issues.

Posture changes quite a lot through the life, and sometimes the patterns that fit well before don’t do the trick a few years later.

Here is the perfect example of this. I have made a toile of the skirt pattern that previously needed no alterations. I made some pictures and discovered that the alteration is now required. Can you spot where?

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