Bodice block adjustment. Part ONE

Now that you have your standard block and “All about body  measurements” eBook, you are fully equipped to start adjusting the block to your personal measurements.

What we are working with

The standard block you have is drafted by “Metric pattern cutting” by Aldrich.

This block has following ease:

  • Bust 5 cm
  • Waist 2 cm
  • Hips 2 cm

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Me and standard block

Finally, I got around to my standard block adjustment! Without much ado, let’s begin.

As a base I took a Close Fitting Standard Bodice Block in size 14 as drafted by W. Aldrich in “Metric pattern cutting”.

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Skirt balance adjustment for forward tilted pelvis and/or round bottom

Here it is, the last part of balance adjustment post. I made this video without any captions, because in this case it is easier to write separate instructions.

Front part of the skirt

  • Lower the front part ( closest to CF ) by amount calculated in this blog post.
  • Restore the front waist length by adjusting front dart width.

 

Back part of the skirt

  • Cut out the back dart and cut though the marked line. Raise the part closest to the centre back by amount calculated here.
  • Middle part is tilted to the left by 0.5 cm.
  • Left part is raised as shown.
  • Take the side seam in at the waist by up to 1 cm.
  • Move the side seam towards the front by 0.5-1 cm
  • Side seam length remains the same.
  • Desired width of the second ( left ) dart is no more than 3 cm, first ( right ) back dart is no more than 4 cm.
  • To reduce the second ( left ) back dart width, take in the CB seam. Adjust the second ( left )  back dart to restore waistline length.

The final block depending on the amount of adjustment may or may not have a dart in front;
may have one or two darts at the back.

Easy!

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Trouser flat seat adjustment. The “fish eye” dart