Today I’ll show you how to measure and mark Width of construction, Back width and Front width of your block.
I have also made a video of me adjusting a half size block, so you have a visual, too.
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Adjusting standard block. Part Two
Posted by on April 17, 2012 2 Comments
Knock knee alteration
Posted by on March 11, 2012 8 Comments
I was asked to show a knock knee alteration some time ago. Sorry it took so long, but I finally got there!
Let’s talk “knock knees “.
Genu valgum, commonly called “knock-knee” or “inward knee rotation” is a condition where the knees angle IN and touch one another when the legs are straightened. Women have a wider pelvis than men and a relatively shorter length of the thigh bone, and as a result, have a greater static genu valgum than men.
Trouser fit flaw caused by knock knees looks like diagonal folds starting at inside of the knees and pointing towards hips and hem.
In order to perform this adjustment you’ll have to take an additional measurement. This measurement is taken between legs at ankle level. Let’s call it ankle distance and call it Z.
Ode to a pocket
Posted by on February 28, 2012 2 Comments
As promised, here is my tribute to Kathleen Fasanella’s double welt pocket method. In case you don’t know who Kathleen Fasanella is, her website is called Fashion Incubator and the method I will describe is called “Welt and paper jig”.
Fly closure ( ladies )
Posted by on February 10, 2012 4 Comments
Sewing in a trouser zipper is not hard, and you have done it before. You probably have a favourite way to go about it. Here is my preferred method.
Trouser pocket tutorial
Posted by on February 5, 2012 7 Comments
I have not posted any sewing tutorials so far and I’d like to rectify this. You might find them interesting, I know I always look through tutorials on your sewing blogs and sometimes I find very interesting and original variations of the same old techniques.
Today’s tutorial is about sewing a front trouser pocket. Click the pictures for a better look and instructions.
I begin with laying the facings on top of the trouser pocket. The pocket is cut as a single piece to avoid unnecessary seams. I try to reduce bulk whenever possible.
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- Facings and the pocket bag
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- The pocket entry facing is interfaced
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- Attach facings. I zigzag the facing on to get smoother edge. Overlocking and stitching on also works, but I don’t like the little “lip” this method creates. Also overlock threads snag easily.
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- The facings are stitched on around all edges
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- ay the trouser and pocket together to make sure my left and right pockets are not swapped
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- Check and re-check
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- Measure edge tape against the trouser pocket entry edge
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- Cut the tape a bit shorter.This is necessary to make sure that the side pockets lay flat
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- Stitch through all layers – tape, pocket and trouser front.
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- Press the seam flat and then to the facing side over the pressing ham to set the curved shape of my pocket
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- Edgestitch the pocket entry to keep facing edge sharp
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- Check from the back to make sure all pieces match and lay smoothly
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- Baste shut the pocket entry
I baste shut the pocket entry, then I stitch the pocket bag shut and zigzag the edge to avoid ridge. After this I stitch the pocket to top edge and side seam of the trouser.
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- Stitch the pocket to the waist edge and side seam
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- Pretty from the front
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- Pretty from the back
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