Do you fully trust commercial patterns? Do you rely on their precision and cut into your precious fabric with no fear or reservation?
If you do, this little blog post just might change the way you sew.
As I was fusing my jacket pieces, I, understandably, had to stop for a break. Fusing a jacket in Australian heat is not an easy task.
So to make my break more entertaining, I decided to test a double welt pocket technique described by Kathleen Fasanella of Fashion Incubator. And what a marvellous technique it is, I can’t recommend it enough. I’ll have to write a separate post devoted to this technique. And a song.
One narrow pocket flap
Now, take a look at this picture. Is there anything that might strike you as a bit…odd?
The pocket opening and the flap are cut according to the pattern. This flap is over 1 cm narrower than the pocket opening. There is no way you need that much discrepancy in pocket opening width and the flap width. The pocket opening can be 1-2 mm wider than the flap, that’s all. I am just not sure if I made a mistake as I was tracing my pattern size or the pattern is flawed?
Now, just imagine for one terrifying minute re-drafting, re-cutting, re-fusing and re-sewing these pocket flaps if you had already cut the pockets in your jacket. What if you had no more fabric left?
I haven’t cut the pocket openings yet, because years ago I made this same mistake and I must assure you, narrow flaps look revolting. So to add to my list of alterations, I am also reducing the pocket openings to fit the flaps I have already sewn. Besides, pockets WERE too close to the centre, so what a serendipity!
This is all for now, I am off to steam some seams.
I do have to mostly trust the pattern because I don’t have and won’t have the skills to draft my own. That being said, in my limited experience to date, I have come across patterns that seem to be a little bit lazily drafted, or at least parts of them do. Sleeves with too much armscye to ease in (unreasonably I think) is the one I can think of the most. Then again, I’ve had so many good results too …..
Glad you checked the pockets first (and found a good method in the process).
Yes, the sleeves! It is the first thing I measure and adjust. Not sure why they do it, only a few types of fabric can handle so much ease without puckering!
Commercial patterns are the reason I started producing my own.
It’s very difficult to maintain a level of professionalism while keeping the enthusiasm of a room full of eager Learn to Sew students alight, when their commercial pattern needs to be rewritten & redrafted because it either doesn’t make sense or is missing pieces.
I try to instill in my students the need to listen to their instincts and not be afraid to experiment however the golden rule with any new pattern is the first garment is always the sample.
Feel like I’ve hijacked your Post a little – love your Blog and thanks for the opportunity to share.
Well said, Jody, I agree completely!