FBA or Full Bust Adjustment

Adjusting pattern to fit the fuller bust

From Valentino Resort ’12 collection

Lots of jumpsuits and plunging necklines there! But this one caught my eye. I just love unexpected details : very modest cowl in front and  – BANG! – exposed back

Image source

How to increase or decrease sleeve cap length correctly

Lots of people on sewing forums ask how to alter the sleeve once they have altered the armscye. It is kind of tricky to explain, so I have made a little video, I hope it helps!

Macy’s jacket final toile

Here it is! The final toile. In the end I still decided to drop the shoulder 1cm ( thank you Nat! ).

The final toile

Macy’s jacket – quick update

Check this out – I have added  2.2 cm of ease to the right sleeve cap ( using the average sleeve cap ease to armscye ratio ), the sleeve height has gone up 1cm. Also I have tapered the sleeve in 2.6 cm. The sleeve head might look dangerously high, but since my fabric has stretch in it, I think I will be able to raise my arm in it :) I think the angle of the right sleeve is much more natural than the left one. Not crazy about the rounded sleeve head though

Sleeve cap ease difference